Reminiscence of Kessara
KESSARA BOUTIQUE HISTORIC HOTEL
Silom, Bangkok
When you think of Bangkok, the first thing that comes to your mind are tall buildings, traffic and that typical smell of street food that is cooked and sold every few steps in the bustling streets. That humid thick air, people wearing face masks to protect their breath. A melting pot of nationalities and personalities. A spectacle of street styles, that you easily notice if you’re a bit into fashion. All that merges together at Bangkok’s famous night markets, where the crazy vibe attracts visitors from all corners of the world, as much as the local residents. It is my first time in the Thai metropolis - and I came without expectations - but that’s what I was easily able to imagine after living in Asia for almost two years.
Now let me tell you that Kessara Hotel has absolutely nothing to do with that. The small boutique hotel with its surrounding garden is like an oasis in midst of the concrete jungle. Situated in the heart of Silom district, close to Lumphini Park and only a short walk from Patpong Night Market, it opened its doors not long ago, in early 2018.
The building is a completely restored two-storey Victorian style ‘Gingerbread’ house from 1916, influenced by European architecture, with adaption to tropical climate. After a colourful past, the unique fretwork is now painted in subtle white and grey. Its decorative gables, and detailed, carved wooden latticework are distinctive for the ‘Gingerbread’ style, discreetly infused with floral design elements of tulips and lilies. Another striking characteristic is the special rain drainage, as well as the spire peak on the rooftop, which is symbol for a noble owner of high military or royal rank.
The wooden house was originally built for Lieutenant General Buri Rajbumrung, the best soldier of the Royal Family’s army back then. Later on, it was sold to a businessman, and finally acquired by the current owner’s grandfather, who couldn’t resist its beauty. These days, it serves as memorial to Thai cultural heritage.
Stepping through the property’s gate feels like entering another world. You immediately sense the historical charm, and the love and care that was given by Puntipha ‘Pear’ S. and her team, to preserve this more than 100 years old architectural gem.
Pear, a young Thai lady, is an architect and interior designer, and doesn’t resemble much the average hotelier. According to her, people would rather imagine an elderly woman with silver hair in her place, and almost seem disappointed when discovering the truth. Personally, I feel nothing but my deepest respect for her accomplishment.
Kessara Hotel is her first project of that kind, and it all started with her passion for small hotels and hostels. When she told her family about it, her grandma came up with the old property, that has been abandoned for 70 years. Until that moment, Pear never had heard about it, so she drove by to have a look.
‘Once I saw it, I felt something about this house. Old, but charming,’ she describes her magical encounter.
When I wonder if she ever thought of moving in herself, she replies: ‘I thought this house should be public. Not just renovated for my family to live or for rental. People should come and stay, and feel the experience of this house.’
Already her grandfather knew that this might be the last traditional Thai house in the area, and urged his wife to protect it from demolition, when he passed away before Pear was born. Pear’s grandmother kept promise and never sold the property. ‘He loved the house,’ she says. ‘Doing the last will of my grandfather, I renovated this house, and turned it into a boutique hotel.’
In honour of her grandmother, she named the hotel ‘Kessara’, after her first name. Incredibly proud, Kessara visited the hotel when it opened, and could not believe her eyes. Pear struggles to hold back her tears, when thinking of her grandma, who left her early this year. The idea was to name the land after her grandfather, and the hotel after her grandmother, so they could be together. Not expecting such an emotional story, I remain deeply touched.
When I ask Pear about her favourite spot in the house, what she loves most about it, she takes a deep breath and exhales: ‘Every spot, every piece, every detail.’ She designed everything herself, from the very beginning. ‘I love every detail. It’s been so exhausting, but now, when I look around, it’s a relief. It’s wow! I never thought that I could do this alone,’ she adds in awe.
Indeed, the restoration of historical buildings like Kessara Hotel is a challenging process. The young architect had to comply with extensive conditions from the authorities for the protection of historic buildings, and elaborate detailed documentation of the status quo.
It took her almost three years to track down traditional manufacturers across the country, gathering all puzzle pieces to keep everything as much as possible. The architecture and interior are 90% true to original.
Likewise, Pear wishes to keep old customs and traditions alive, to give her guests ‘the real Thai experience.’ Hence, the first thing to do is taking off your shoes at the entrance. Then cross the beautifully tiled veranda style reception area to the wooden stairwells that lead to the rooms. Tasteful vintage decor and a display of old artefacts and photographs of Bangkok’s past, emphasise the place’s authenticity. Walking barefoot on the dark polished wooden floor and perceiving a subtle smell of freshness, makes you immediately feel at home.
Kessara Hotel offers 7 individually furnished rooms, all named after flowers that play a role in ancient Thai tradition and royal ceremonies. The authentic interior design radiates a feeling of cosiness and quietude. A modern, bright and clean space, that keeps the balance with the historical style, without looking old-fashioned. The style is classic, elegant and graceful. Creating a magical atmosphere that makes you want to disconnect from the busy world. The rooms are decorated in muted and delicate colours, with hints of pastel. Wood panelled walls and ceilings as well as wooden window shutters remind of the Victorian age.
Floral shaped lamps, a hand painted ceramic washbasin with classic brass fittings, as well as ornamented floor tiles, add a touch of Art Nouveau to the bathrooms. Nostalgic accents draw like a thread through the entire design concept. The furniture is not only beautiful, but also sophisticated. If you are attentive to details, you might discover that behind each bathroom mirror hides another window. Unveiling the view into the well-maintained garden, covering the city skyline behind. Everything is in the right place and contributes to the guest’s maximum comfort. Some bathrooms are equipped with a freestanding bathtub, ideal to relax after a long day exploring the city. The nights are calm and peaceful in the air-conditioned rooms, and you enjoy absolute privacy. In the morning, you wake up with the rising sun, snuggled in the cosy bed, feeling like a sleeping beauty.
The dining area is located on the ground floor behind the reception. Breakfast is served from 7:00 to 10:00 am and offers you a variety of continental and local à la carte food choices. Serve yourself with coffee, tea, juice, tropical fruits, cereals, and a selection of bread and pastries at the complimentary buffet. Calming ambient music lets you start smoothly into the new day.
An interesting assortment of books and local publications about Bangkok highlights, street food, local language and Thai cuisine can be found in the lounge area. Take it slow, and sit down on the sofa with a cup of coffee and a good read. Tofu the cat might join you there for a nap. (Edit: R.I.P. Tofu, he passed away few months later…)
The exceptionally kind staff and security take care of you in a very discrete way and ensure a pleasant stay at Kessara Hotel. The service is what the owner values most. ‘I train my staff to treat our guests like one of their relatives. They should remember their names and make them feel comfortable, like at home.’ Don’t expect extravagant luxury service – that sometimes can feel quite intrusive – but sincere care paired with discrete attention.
The boutique hotel is suited for travellers, best friends, couples or honeymooners, seeking an intimate experience and a tranquil hideaway from the city life. A peaceful retreat, where creatives can process the overflow of impressions and gained inspiration from a day in Bangkok. Following an adults-only concept, it is not an option for families. Small private events such as wedding or birthday celebrations can take place in the backyard. Kessara Boutique Historic Hotel is the epitome of Thai cultural experience, not to be missed on a trip to Bangkok.
Book your stay at Kessara Boutique Historic Hotel.
TYPE: Boutique hotel
FEELING: Calm, relaxing, homey
ROOM PICK: 01 Nuanchan room, ground floor
BREAKFAST: Continental & Thai food à la carte + buffet
SERVICE: Warm, discrete, caring
RATES: 4.000-6.000 THB | 120-180 EUR | 130-200 USD, depending on the season
WIFI: Yes
CHILDREN: No
RESTAURANT: Coming soon
POOL/SPA: No
I stayed courtesy of Kessara Boutique Historic Hotel. All expressed opinions are my own.